The venerated and famous name of Bisquit (pronounced Bis-kwi) Cognac has heralded its arrival in Kenya. This brand comes from the Cognac region – famous for producing some of the world’s most sought after brandies. However, as the “Houses” in Cognac insist these are not mere brandies, but cognacs. Cognac is named after the town of Cognac in south-west France in and is produced in the wine-growing region surrounding the town from which it takes its name. To bear the name Cognac, an Appellation d'origine contrôlée, a variety of production methods must be met, overseen and certified by the Cognac Société des Alcools Viticole. These requirements include that all the grapes used for cognac production are grown within the Cognac region and that the grape variety used is predominantly (at least 90%) Ugni Blanc. In addition, the brandy must be twice distilled in copper pot stills, the design and dimensions of which are also regulated; and then aged at least two years in French oak barrels from the Limousin or Tronçais regions. These strict production methods are designed to maintain quality and not least exclusivity. In this respect cognac closely resembles other iconic alcoholic beverages such as Champagne from the Champagne region in northern France, Port from the Douro region of northern Portugal and Sherry from around the town of Jerez in southern Spain.
To make Bisquit Cognac the first process is to make wine. Unlike production for table wine, no sulphur dioxide is added to the grape pulp. The grape pulp is passed through a separator and free-run juice is released without pressing. The main reason for the preference for the Ugni Blanc grape is its high natural acidity and relatively low sugar content. This results in a crisp and fruity wine suitable for cognac. The wine is always fermented to be as dry (low sugar) as possible, to have a relatively low alcohol content (between 7% and 8% alcohol), and to have low volatile acids (naturally occurring organic acids of wines that happen to be separable by distillation). Once the wine has been produced it goes through the process of distillation. The art and science of distillation has been practiced by mankind for thousands of years. For centuries distillation was believed to hold the secret formula of life; endowed with magical powers to counteract almost any human aliment from the flu, kidney stones, heart palpitations and general pain. Almost all societies where alcohol is permitted produce a distilled drink from an inexhaustible variety of crops. These spirits include vodka made from potatoes, rum from sugar, calvados from apples, whisky from fermented grain mash, and gin from juniper berries to name just the most famous spirits. In the top quality tier of spirits is Cognac, which is technically a brandy coming from the Dutch word ‘brandewijn’ meaning ‘burnt’ or ‘distilled wine’.
For Bisquit Cognac the wine is heated and the vapour containing the alcohol is the first to be released. The following colourless spirit is then trapped, cooled and condensed into an alcoholic liquid. The capturing of the best flavour-imparting compounds in addition to alcohol is an art and skill and is credited to the French in Cognac. The first vapour to be released from the still is called the ‘heads’ containing undesirable characteristics for cognac. It is the second part of the vapours called the ‘heart’ that the distiller is after as this contains the highest concentration of positive characteristics. The ‘tails’ the final part of the vapours released and discarded for the purposes of cognac. The process of distillation is then carried out once again in accordance with the regulations of the Cognac region to produce a spirit with an alcohol content of around 70%.
The next stage is the aging of the cognac in oak barrels and for Bisquit the size of barrel used is about 300 litres. This maturation process produces a number of results. As the cognac reacts with the oak and air it evaporates at about 3% a year (the famous “angels’ share”) reducing both the alcohol and water content and the cognac reaches its desired alcohol content of 40% after 4 or 5 years. The maturation process also has the effect of imparting flavours from the oak barrel to the cognac as well as making the cognac smoother on the palate. To a certain extent, Bisquit Cognac also takes some of its distinctive golden colour from the maturation process in oak barrels. The final phase of production is blending whereby the ‘Master Blender’, (which always seem to be called ‘Master’ even when the blender is actually a women as is the case at the South African brandy maker Van Ryn’s), assembles a cognac from a myriad of barrels of cognacs in search of a specified style. For whatever brand of cognac in the Bisquit range (see below), the Master Blender is aiming for a consistence of style to deliver to the consumer their favourite cognac year in year out.
The house of Bisquit Cognac was originally established by Alexandre Bisquit in 1819. In 2009, Bisquit was bought by the South African wine and spirits company Distell. Over the last few years Distell has introduced the premium brand of Bisquit to African countries, which now includes Kenya. At the Kenyan Bisquit launch held at the Serena Hotel Nairobi on 29 May, Karen Gikunda, (Brands Manager Kenya), presented three fine Bisquit Cognacs.
At the entry level and great as a base for producing cocktails of a wide variety is the Bisquit VS (Very Special) Classique. The colour is bright gold and the nose has hints of honey, vanilla and oak. On the palate (taste) the VS Classique is bright and fruity, with distinctive cherry-plum, pear and citrus notes. Finally, on the finish the cognac is generous and smooth.
The next in the range is the Bisquit VSOP (Very Superior Old Classic) Fine Champagne cognac. Champagne is the name of a sub-region of the Cognac region (but is different from the area where Champagne fizzy is produced?) and for the Bisquit VSOP this is where the grapes are sourced to produce the initial wine prior to distillation. The colour is amber/copper and the nose is characterised by candied fruit and gingerbread. The finish is long with lingering flavours of candied fruit and vanilla.
The final cognac in the range was the piėce de résistance of the evening: the Bisquit XO (Extra Old) Excellence. The blended cognacs for this top of the range product must be by regulation, at least 6 years old, but for Bisquit the average age of the cognacs used to blend the XO Excellence are upwards of 20 years old. In colour the Bisquit XO Excellence is deep amber with a complex nose (aromas) of jasmine, sandalwood and cocoa. The palate is extremely smooth with a long and lasting finish as one would expect from such high quality cognac.
