Recently the Sankara Hotel hosted a wine tasting extravaganza showcasing the wines of the old and venerated Meerlust Estate from South Africa. This was not the first visit of the Meerlust Estate to Kenya. Some years ago the then wine maker at Meerlust the legendary Cape-Italian Giorgio Dalla Cia visited Kenya and established much goodwill. Although Giorgio left the Meerlust estate some years ago he still maintains a prominent position within the South African wine world including his own wine estate. He is also the wine advisor to the Sankara Hotel developing an impressive wine list with exciting additions in the pipeline. The Sankara Hotel connection with Meerlust continues with a recent visit from Hannes Myburgh the owner and Chris Williams the cellar master.
Situated 15 kilometres south of Stellenbosch, South Africa’s wine capital, and with the blue crescent of False Bay just 5 kilometres away, Meerlust dates back to 1693. A German immigrant to the Cape Henning Huising recognised the beauty of his new farm and named it Meerlust meaning “pleasure of the sea”. Beginning in 1756 the Myburgh family have had a continuous presence at Meerlust representing some eight generations.
The Meerlust Estate is recognised as one of the world’s great wine estate and their wines are appreciated and treasured in many countries around the world. The emphasis at the Meerlust Estate as Chris explained is to produce wines that reflect a sense of place, or that difficult to translate French word terroir. As a relatively small estate with approximately 106 hectres under vines, it might be expected that soils would be fairly uniform. In fact soil types change over very short distances on the farm creating a diversity of growing conditions. Meerlust grows mainly red grape varieties led by Cabernet sauvignon and Merlot with a small amount of Pinot noir and even smaller amount of Cabernet franc. The remaining 10 per cent of vines are the white grape variety Chardonnay.
Chris introduced a selection of Meerlust Estate wines. Starting with the Chardonnay bright and brilliant in very clean Sankara Hotel glasses the wine has a complex bouquet with citrus and floral notes with vanilla and toast from the delicate use of oak barrel maturation. On the palate the Chardonnay is full, but still balanced by crisp acidity. The second wine we tried was the Pinot noir a youthful purple-ruby in colour. Pinot noir is known for being a difficult grape to grow being particularly susceptible to the vagaries of climate. Too wet and the grapes have too much water content and too hot they lead to over ripe wines that can taste jammy. Not so with this Pinot noir, this has lots of strawberries on the bouquet and palate with nice spice and fruits. The last wine we tried was the Merlot again a youthful purple colour in the glass. The Merlot grape can produce very soft and even voluptuous wines and the Meerlust example definitely shows these characteristics.
Something Chris commented on was that his wines tasted different here in Kenya compared to how they taste back home in South Africa the bend of False Bay. I think this could be due to a number of reasons the least likely being a bit of bottle-shock the wines had from their journey from South Africa. More likely and what I notice regularly is the effect of altitude has on taste. Taste of anything including wine changes with altitude and is a reason why sipping very expensive wines at 35,000 feet in an airplane may not live up to expectations, although chance would be a fine thing.
The Meerlust Estate wine tasting at the Sankara Hotel was a real treat for we wine enthusiasts. I must congratulate the Sankara Hotel for a number of reasons. It was great to have quality and most importantly clean glasses that showcased the wines to their full. You would be surprised how really good wines can be spoiled by inappropriate and dirty glasses a big bug-bare of mine. Congratulations also to the Sankara Hotel chefs for providing some delicious food pairings, which again showcased the Meerlust wines excellently. All-in-all this was a very successful and enjoyable wine tasting at the Sankara Hotel. All the Meerlust Estate wines are available and can be enjoyed at the Sankara Hotel.
Tuesday, August 7, 2012
Interesting Wines In Kenya
I have been mulling over what I and other wine enthusiasts refer to as a modern-day paradox. On the one hand, we wine drinkers have never had it so good. The world is awash with well made, technically sound wines for prices that are relatively cheap. On the other hand, here in Kenya the wines available, at least on first inspection, appear to be restricted to the brands of a handful of mega-sized multinational companies. These homogenised, safe and consistent wines are fine and even dandy; it’s just that they can be just a bit boring. Is there some sort of ‘coca-cola-rization’ going on whereby wherever we are in the world the wine seems to taste all the same? I am of course protesting too much and you would be right if you are thinking there are more important things in Kenya to worry about than a variation on the ‘Anything-But-Chardonnay/Cabernet’ syndrome. Truth is that if you do dig a little it is surprising what interesting and even unique wines you can find in Kenya.
I am prioritising the wines available from South Africa because in terms of volumes of wine imported and sold in Kenya, wines from South Africa occupy first place. After Angola and Nigeria, Kenya imports more South African wine than any other sub-Saharan African country. Leading the fray and available in all supermarkets across Kenya from the hypermarkets of Nairobi to the road side dukas in even the smallest towns, are the products of the giant South African wines and spirits company Distell.
The South African company Distell should not be mistaken with Distell Kenya Ltd. Although the names are the same the two companies are not formally connected. This becomes more confusing because Distell Kenya Ltd as do other wine wholesalers companies in Kenya market some Distell SA brands. The biggest sellers in Kenya from what Distell SAs describe as their basic range are the boxed offerings from the Overmeer brand. Some of the grapes for the Overmeer Selected Stein and Semi-Sweet offerings are grown in Dodoma, Tanzania where Distell SA have a major operation
Also to be found in the major supermarkets is the Distell SA ”Two Oceans” brand, which I am quite impressed by in that they offer particularly good value for money. In Kenya we get the Two Oceans Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot blend, Pinotage, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Finally, from the Distell SA stable we have the big-three brands; Zonnebloem, Fleur du Cap and the Granddaddy of them all Nederburg. Nederburg have won prizes galore including the Platter’s South African Wine Guide’s, , “Winery of the Year” award for 2011, and an extensive range of Nederburg wines are available in Kenya. Incidentally, John Platter was brought up and in Kenya and worked for the Nation newspaper before moving to South Africa.
The various brands of Douglas Green Bellingham (DGB) are the second largest South African wines sold here in Kenya and are available from Wines of the World. The DGB brand Bellingham markets mostly at the entry level red (cabernet sauvignon), white (chardonnay) and rosé (Shiraz based). In Nairobi, the Bellingham brands are displayed on billboards far and wide, which give them some recognition amongst the wine buying public. Like Nederburg, Bellingham has also upped their game in recent years although their basic range, while technically good is nothing necessarily to get the nose twitching. More interesting I find is Bellingham’s Fair Maiden a roussanne led blend and both the 2008 and 2009 are available in Nairobi. Up another level is The Bernard Series DGB-owned Bellingham range which is named after the wine maker Bernard Podlashuk, who it is said was the first to produce a shiraz in South Africa. The one I like from this range is the Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2009.
We are gradually moving upwards in terms of wines I would describe as interesting. The definition of interesting is of course purely subjective and for me mostly relates to bouquet and taste. It also includes how and where the wine is produced. For something really interesting I would recommend the Black Pearl Vineyards Shiraz 2003, a case of which I found tucked away in the storeroom of one of Nairobi’s wine suppliers Mia Wines and Spirits International.
I met Mary-Lou Nash Sullivan, winemaker and viticulturist at Black Pearl Vineyards, in Paarl a few years ago during a trip to the Cape. She explained her and her family’s commitment to a natural approach to winemaking and endeavouring to express that elusive terroir. Originally hailing from New England, USA, the Nash family have set about converting the 240 hectre farm including about 7 hectres of vineyards to as close they can get to ecological harmony as possible. Kenyan’s probably associate the Black Pearl with the ship in the hugely popular Disney Pirates of the Caribbean films, although the name actually relates to the fact that the vineyards is situated on the slopes of Paarl Mountain, and Paarl rock resembles a black pearl after it has rained. As for the taste, well Mary-Lou might be interested to know that the Shiraz 2003 has held up well even though it is several thousands kilometres from home. There is still plenty of fruit (blackberries) on the nose and palate and the oak flavours, which if I remember on previous tasting used to give quite a whack, have integrated nicely. I am not sure how the Black Pearl sailed to Kenya, but I for one am glad that it did.
Last but not least in the world of interesting wines to be found in Kenya comes perhaps the piėce de résistance in the form of two wines from Sadie Family Vineyards, Malmesbury Swartland also available from Mia Wines and Spirits International. I have also had the good fortune to meet Eben Sadie, winemaker and much more at Sadie Family Vineyards, and taste his wines at the unimposing cellar, actually more a rather large garage, at the vineyard. Apart from the wonderful wines, what I was fascinated to see was the line of empty bottles of Northern and Southern Rhône Appellations wines on a ledge almost completely surrounding the barrels of Sadie Family Vineyards maturing wines. The empty bottles included Chave Hermitage, Auguste Clape Cornas and Château de Beaucastle Châteauneuf-du-Pape and are testimony to Eben’s admiration for these wines. The Sadie Family Vineyard wines in the form of the red Columella is not a reverential copy of famous Northern and Southern Rhône Appellations. Instead, Eben is trying and succeeding to express as much as possible the fruit from very old Swartland bush vines and the overall sense of place and of his wines. I am amazed and delighted to find several cases of Columella 2008 and Palladius 2009, a white blend of eight mainly Rhône white varieties here in Kenya. I cannot imagine what these fabulous and very interesting wines are doing here, but if Eben is ever comes to Kenya we will definitely make him most welcome.
I am prioritising the wines available from South Africa because in terms of volumes of wine imported and sold in Kenya, wines from South Africa occupy first place. After Angola and Nigeria, Kenya imports more South African wine than any other sub-Saharan African country. Leading the fray and available in all supermarkets across Kenya from the hypermarkets of Nairobi to the road side dukas in even the smallest towns, are the products of the giant South African wines and spirits company Distell.
The South African company Distell should not be mistaken with Distell Kenya Ltd. Although the names are the same the two companies are not formally connected. This becomes more confusing because Distell Kenya Ltd as do other wine wholesalers companies in Kenya market some Distell SA brands. The biggest sellers in Kenya from what Distell SAs describe as their basic range are the boxed offerings from the Overmeer brand. Some of the grapes for the Overmeer Selected Stein and Semi-Sweet offerings are grown in Dodoma, Tanzania where Distell SA have a major operation
Also to be found in the major supermarkets is the Distell SA ”Two Oceans” brand, which I am quite impressed by in that they offer particularly good value for money. In Kenya we get the Two Oceans Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot blend, Pinotage, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Finally, from the Distell SA stable we have the big-three brands; Zonnebloem, Fleur du Cap and the Granddaddy of them all Nederburg. Nederburg have won prizes galore including the Platter’s South African Wine Guide’s, , “Winery of the Year” award for 2011, and an extensive range of Nederburg wines are available in Kenya. Incidentally, John Platter was brought up and in Kenya and worked for the Nation newspaper before moving to South Africa.
The various brands of Douglas Green Bellingham (DGB) are the second largest South African wines sold here in Kenya and are available from Wines of the World. The DGB brand Bellingham markets mostly at the entry level red (cabernet sauvignon), white (chardonnay) and rosé (Shiraz based). In Nairobi, the Bellingham brands are displayed on billboards far and wide, which give them some recognition amongst the wine buying public. Like Nederburg, Bellingham has also upped their game in recent years although their basic range, while technically good is nothing necessarily to get the nose twitching. More interesting I find is Bellingham’s Fair Maiden a roussanne led blend and both the 2008 and 2009 are available in Nairobi. Up another level is The Bernard Series DGB-owned Bellingham range which is named after the wine maker Bernard Podlashuk, who it is said was the first to produce a shiraz in South Africa. The one I like from this range is the Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2009.
We are gradually moving upwards in terms of wines I would describe as interesting. The definition of interesting is of course purely subjective and for me mostly relates to bouquet and taste. It also includes how and where the wine is produced. For something really interesting I would recommend the Black Pearl Vineyards Shiraz 2003, a case of which I found tucked away in the storeroom of one of Nairobi’s wine suppliers Mia Wines and Spirits International.
I met Mary-Lou Nash Sullivan, winemaker and viticulturist at Black Pearl Vineyards, in Paarl a few years ago during a trip to the Cape. She explained her and her family’s commitment to a natural approach to winemaking and endeavouring to express that elusive terroir. Originally hailing from New England, USA, the Nash family have set about converting the 240 hectre farm including about 7 hectres of vineyards to as close they can get to ecological harmony as possible. Kenyan’s probably associate the Black Pearl with the ship in the hugely popular Disney Pirates of the Caribbean films, although the name actually relates to the fact that the vineyards is situated on the slopes of Paarl Mountain, and Paarl rock resembles a black pearl after it has rained. As for the taste, well Mary-Lou might be interested to know that the Shiraz 2003 has held up well even though it is several thousands kilometres from home. There is still plenty of fruit (blackberries) on the nose and palate and the oak flavours, which if I remember on previous tasting used to give quite a whack, have integrated nicely. I am not sure how the Black Pearl sailed to Kenya, but I for one am glad that it did.
Last but not least in the world of interesting wines to be found in Kenya comes perhaps the piėce de résistance in the form of two wines from Sadie Family Vineyards, Malmesbury Swartland also available from Mia Wines and Spirits International. I have also had the good fortune to meet Eben Sadie, winemaker and much more at Sadie Family Vineyards, and taste his wines at the unimposing cellar, actually more a rather large garage, at the vineyard. Apart from the wonderful wines, what I was fascinated to see was the line of empty bottles of Northern and Southern Rhône Appellations wines on a ledge almost completely surrounding the barrels of Sadie Family Vineyards maturing wines. The empty bottles included Chave Hermitage, Auguste Clape Cornas and Château de Beaucastle Châteauneuf-du-Pape and are testimony to Eben’s admiration for these wines. The Sadie Family Vineyard wines in the form of the red Columella is not a reverential copy of famous Northern and Southern Rhône Appellations. Instead, Eben is trying and succeeding to express as much as possible the fruit from very old Swartland bush vines and the overall sense of place and of his wines. I am amazed and delighted to find several cases of Columella 2008 and Palladius 2009, a white blend of eight mainly Rhône white varieties here in Kenya. I cannot imagine what these fabulous and very interesting wines are doing here, but if Eben is ever comes to Kenya we will definitely make him most welcome.
Monday, June 18, 2012
“Eau de Vie” The Water of Life: Bisquit Arrives in Kenya
The venerated and famous name of Bisquit (pronounced Bis-kwi) Cognac has heralded its arrival in Kenya. This brand comes from the Cognac region – famous for producing some of the world’s most sought after brandies. However, as the “Houses” in Cognac insist these are not mere brandies, but cognacs. Cognac is named after the town of Cognac in south-west France in and is produced in the wine-growing region surrounding the town from which it takes its name. To bear the name Cognac, an Appellation d'origine contrôlée, a variety of production methods must be met, overseen and certified by the Cognac Société des Alcools Viticole. These requirements include that all the grapes used for cognac production are grown within the Cognac region and that the grape variety used is predominantly (at least 90%) Ugni Blanc. In addition, the brandy must be twice distilled in copper pot stills, the design and dimensions of which are also regulated; and then aged at least two years in French oak barrels from the Limousin or Tronçais regions. These strict production methods are designed to maintain quality and not least exclusivity. In this respect cognac closely resembles other iconic alcoholic beverages such as Champagne from the Champagne region in northern France, Port from the Douro region of northern Portugal and Sherry from around the town of Jerez in southern Spain.
To make Bisquit Cognac the first process is to make wine. Unlike production for table wine, no sulphur dioxide is added to the grape pulp. The grape pulp is passed through a separator and free-run juice is released without pressing. The main reason for the preference for the Ugni Blanc grape is its high natural acidity and relatively low sugar content. This results in a crisp and fruity wine suitable for cognac. The wine is always fermented to be as dry (low sugar) as possible, to have a relatively low alcohol content (between 7% and 8% alcohol), and to have low volatile acids (naturally occurring organic acids of wines that happen to be separable by distillation). Once the wine has been produced it goes through the process of distillation. The art and science of distillation has been practiced by mankind for thousands of years. For centuries distillation was believed to hold the secret formula of life; endowed with magical powers to counteract almost any human aliment from the flu, kidney stones, heart palpitations and general pain. Almost all societies where alcohol is permitted produce a distilled drink from an inexhaustible variety of crops. These spirits include vodka made from potatoes, rum from sugar, calvados from apples, whisky from fermented grain mash, and gin from juniper berries to name just the most famous spirits. In the top quality tier of spirits is Cognac, which is technically a brandy coming from the Dutch word ‘brandewijn’ meaning ‘burnt’ or ‘distilled wine’.
For Bisquit Cognac the wine is heated and the vapour containing the alcohol is the first to be released. The following colourless spirit is then trapped, cooled and condensed into an alcoholic liquid. The capturing of the best flavour-imparting compounds in addition to alcohol is an art and skill and is credited to the French in Cognac. The first vapour to be released from the still is called the ‘heads’ containing undesirable characteristics for cognac. It is the second part of the vapours called the ‘heart’ that the distiller is after as this contains the highest concentration of positive characteristics. The ‘tails’ the final part of the vapours released and discarded for the purposes of cognac. The process of distillation is then carried out once again in accordance with the regulations of the Cognac region to produce a spirit with an alcohol content of around 70%.
The next stage is the aging of the cognac in oak barrels and for Bisquit the size of barrel used is about 300 litres. This maturation process produces a number of results. As the cognac reacts with the oak and air it evaporates at about 3% a year (the famous “angels’ share”) reducing both the alcohol and water content and the cognac reaches its desired alcohol content of 40% after 4 or 5 years. The maturation process also has the effect of imparting flavours from the oak barrel to the cognac as well as making the cognac smoother on the palate. To a certain extent, Bisquit Cognac also takes some of its distinctive golden colour from the maturation process in oak barrels. The final phase of production is blending whereby the ‘Master Blender’, (which always seem to be called ‘Master’ even when the blender is actually a women as is the case at the South African brandy maker Van Ryn’s), assembles a cognac from a myriad of barrels of cognacs in search of a specified style. For whatever brand of cognac in the Bisquit range (see below), the Master Blender is aiming for a consistence of style to deliver to the consumer their favourite cognac year in year out.
The house of Bisquit Cognac was originally established by Alexandre Bisquit in 1819. In 2009, Bisquit was bought by the South African wine and spirits company Distell. Over the last few years Distell has introduced the premium brand of Bisquit to African countries, which now includes Kenya. At the Kenyan Bisquit launch held at the Serena Hotel Nairobi on 29 May, Karen Gikunda, (Brands Manager Kenya), presented three fine Bisquit Cognacs.
At the entry level and great as a base for producing cocktails of a wide variety is the Bisquit VS (Very Special) Classique. The colour is bright gold and the nose has hints of honey, vanilla and oak. On the palate (taste) the VS Classique is bright and fruity, with distinctive cherry-plum, pear and citrus notes. Finally, on the finish the cognac is generous and smooth.
The next in the range is the Bisquit VSOP (Very Superior Old Classic) Fine Champagne cognac. Champagne is the name of a sub-region of the Cognac region (but is different from the area where Champagne fizzy is produced?) and for the Bisquit VSOP this is where the grapes are sourced to produce the initial wine prior to distillation. The colour is amber/copper and the nose is characterised by candied fruit and gingerbread. The finish is long with lingering flavours of candied fruit and vanilla.
The final cognac in the range was the piėce de résistance of the evening: the Bisquit XO (Extra Old) Excellence. The blended cognacs for this top of the range product must be by regulation, at least 6 years old, but for Bisquit the average age of the cognacs used to blend the XO Excellence are upwards of 20 years old. In colour the Bisquit XO Excellence is deep amber with a complex nose (aromas) of jasmine, sandalwood and cocoa. The palate is extremely smooth with a long and lasting finish as one would expect from such high quality cognac.
To make Bisquit Cognac the first process is to make wine. Unlike production for table wine, no sulphur dioxide is added to the grape pulp. The grape pulp is passed through a separator and free-run juice is released without pressing. The main reason for the preference for the Ugni Blanc grape is its high natural acidity and relatively low sugar content. This results in a crisp and fruity wine suitable for cognac. The wine is always fermented to be as dry (low sugar) as possible, to have a relatively low alcohol content (between 7% and 8% alcohol), and to have low volatile acids (naturally occurring organic acids of wines that happen to be separable by distillation). Once the wine has been produced it goes through the process of distillation. The art and science of distillation has been practiced by mankind for thousands of years. For centuries distillation was believed to hold the secret formula of life; endowed with magical powers to counteract almost any human aliment from the flu, kidney stones, heart palpitations and general pain. Almost all societies where alcohol is permitted produce a distilled drink from an inexhaustible variety of crops. These spirits include vodka made from potatoes, rum from sugar, calvados from apples, whisky from fermented grain mash, and gin from juniper berries to name just the most famous spirits. In the top quality tier of spirits is Cognac, which is technically a brandy coming from the Dutch word ‘brandewijn’ meaning ‘burnt’ or ‘distilled wine’.
For Bisquit Cognac the wine is heated and the vapour containing the alcohol is the first to be released. The following colourless spirit is then trapped, cooled and condensed into an alcoholic liquid. The capturing of the best flavour-imparting compounds in addition to alcohol is an art and skill and is credited to the French in Cognac. The first vapour to be released from the still is called the ‘heads’ containing undesirable characteristics for cognac. It is the second part of the vapours called the ‘heart’ that the distiller is after as this contains the highest concentration of positive characteristics. The ‘tails’ the final part of the vapours released and discarded for the purposes of cognac. The process of distillation is then carried out once again in accordance with the regulations of the Cognac region to produce a spirit with an alcohol content of around 70%.
The next stage is the aging of the cognac in oak barrels and for Bisquit the size of barrel used is about 300 litres. This maturation process produces a number of results. As the cognac reacts with the oak and air it evaporates at about 3% a year (the famous “angels’ share”) reducing both the alcohol and water content and the cognac reaches its desired alcohol content of 40% after 4 or 5 years. The maturation process also has the effect of imparting flavours from the oak barrel to the cognac as well as making the cognac smoother on the palate. To a certain extent, Bisquit Cognac also takes some of its distinctive golden colour from the maturation process in oak barrels. The final phase of production is blending whereby the ‘Master Blender’, (which always seem to be called ‘Master’ even when the blender is actually a women as is the case at the South African brandy maker Van Ryn’s), assembles a cognac from a myriad of barrels of cognacs in search of a specified style. For whatever brand of cognac in the Bisquit range (see below), the Master Blender is aiming for a consistence of style to deliver to the consumer their favourite cognac year in year out.
The house of Bisquit Cognac was originally established by Alexandre Bisquit in 1819. In 2009, Bisquit was bought by the South African wine and spirits company Distell. Over the last few years Distell has introduced the premium brand of Bisquit to African countries, which now includes Kenya. At the Kenyan Bisquit launch held at the Serena Hotel Nairobi on 29 May, Karen Gikunda, (Brands Manager Kenya), presented three fine Bisquit Cognacs.
At the entry level and great as a base for producing cocktails of a wide variety is the Bisquit VS (Very Special) Classique. The colour is bright gold and the nose has hints of honey, vanilla and oak. On the palate (taste) the VS Classique is bright and fruity, with distinctive cherry-plum, pear and citrus notes. Finally, on the finish the cognac is generous and smooth.
The next in the range is the Bisquit VSOP (Very Superior Old Classic) Fine Champagne cognac. Champagne is the name of a sub-region of the Cognac region (but is different from the area where Champagne fizzy is produced?) and for the Bisquit VSOP this is where the grapes are sourced to produce the initial wine prior to distillation. The colour is amber/copper and the nose is characterised by candied fruit and gingerbread. The finish is long with lingering flavours of candied fruit and vanilla.
The final cognac in the range was the piėce de résistance of the evening: the Bisquit XO (Extra Old) Excellence. The blended cognacs for this top of the range product must be by regulation, at least 6 years old, but for Bisquit the average age of the cognacs used to blend the XO Excellence are upwards of 20 years old. In colour the Bisquit XO Excellence is deep amber with a complex nose (aromas) of jasmine, sandalwood and cocoa. The palate is extremely smooth with a long and lasting finish as one would expect from such high quality cognac.
Wednesday, May 23, 2012
Tuscany: The Homeland of Chianti (Toscana: La Partria Del Chianti)
There is no doubt that the world loves Italian food. I suspect though that other than Italians the world is less passionate about Italian wine. The problem has been partly one of image whereby most Italian wines with notable exceptions have tended to be associated with terms such as rustic, robust and old fashioned. While the rest of the wine producing world, particularly New World countries such as Australia, USA and latterly Chile and Argentina, were upping the quality to value for money ratio, Italy continued to produce an ocean of mediocrity, or, and let us be honest, plonk. The good news for wine drinkers is that things have changed for the better. Italy has undergone its own wine modernization revolution. What is particularly exciting for we wine geeks is that the improvement in the general quality has not been at the expense of jettisoning tradition and most importantly maintaining Italy’s grape diversity. While it is true the plantings of French grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay have over the last two decades increased, the most interesting Italian wines are still based on Italy’s unique stock of around 1,000 indigenous grape varieties.
Italy vies with France as the world’s largest producer of wine and the Italians still consume most of that wine themselves: about 50 to 60 litres per capita per year. While this still puts Italy near the top of the world’s league table of consumers the figure has halved over the last fifty years. The key to understanding Italian wine is first and foremost to understand the critical link with the country’s food. In the past Italians like much of the rest of Europe drank wine primarily as a safe alternative to water. Fermented grape juice has the advantage of killing many of the harmful bacteria associated with poor quality water and is certainly more interesting, not to mention the pleasant effectsdue to alcohol. Among foodies and wine lovers there isa somewhat esoteric debate that goes along the following lines. Did the different styles of wines to be found throughout Italy’s regions develop to match the food, or, did the regional foods of Italy develop to match the wines?
The answer is of course probably a bit of both, but what is striking, if you ever have the good fortune to travel in Italy, is the superb match between local foods and local wines. In Sicily in the hot south of Italy the white wines made from the grape variety Catarratto Blanco and the red wines made from the grape variety Nero d’Avola go fantastically with the seafood and predominantly vegetarian cuisine. From the Piedmont region in the north west of Italy can be found Barbaresco, Barbera, and Barolo wines. These red wines are a match made in heaven for dishes such as tairin, narrow tagliatelle enriched with aromatic truffles, or, Brasato al Barolo, braised beef with Barolo. Italian cuisine is all about the quality of the ingredients epitomized by the humble tomato, of which there are over three-hundred varieties grown in Italy. It is no accident that the wines of Italy and above all the famous Sangiovese grape variety indigenous to the Tuscany region in central Italy, match exquisitely the tomato based foods. Whether it is beautiful ripe red tomatoes on a plate of antipasti, or, a rich tomato pasta sauce, Italians reach for theirTuscan Sangiovese based wine such as Chianti and Brunello diMontalcino.
In terms of wine production Tuscany is not the largest producing region in Italy; in fact it is third behind Piedmont and Vento regions, but it is perhaps the most exciting. Tuscany has achieved a double trick whereby it has managed to maintain tradition while at the same time pioneered new methods of production that put it at the forefront of innovation in Italian wine making. The most concrete example of innovation was in the 1960’s and 1970’s with the introduction of the so called “Super Tuscans”. Super Tuscans are based on a "Bordeaux-blend", meaning a combination of grapes typical for the Bordeaux region in South West France (especially Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot). These grapes are not originally from the region, but imported and planted later. The climate in Tuscany has proven to be very good for these grapes. One of the first successful Super Tuscan based a "Bordeaux-blend" was Sassicaia, by Tenuta San Guido a wine tasted for this article and reported on below.
The success of Super Tuscan wine particularly outside of Italy has had the effect of encouraging innovation and improved quality of wine production in Chianti, other Tuscan areas of wine production and to a certain extent throughout the rest of Italy. Chianti produced in the central part of Tuscany used to be bottled in a distinctive dumpy-shaped bottle enclosed in a straw basket that spurned a world wide craze in home table lamp production. The wine itself was unexciting, but with the introduction of a new classification of Chianti Classico, Chianti production has improved in quality dramatically. These Chianti and Chianti Classico wines are still predominantly based on the Tuscans’ beloved Sangiovese grape, but the addition of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in varying amounts, combined with modern wine making, has made them some of Italy’s most sought after red wines.
Before we move to the Tuscan wine tasting, let me turn to a wonderful quirk, which is Kenya’s own Italian wine. Meru Wine based not far from the town of Meru close to Mount Kenya, produce Barbera a Red Table Wine as well as a White Table Wine and a Communion Wine. The text on the back label of the Barbera wine is wonderfully romantic describing how in 1904 Monsignor Perlo and Father Carliero planted the first vines around Muran’ga and Nyeri. Following the success achieved from wines made from the grapes of these first vines, vines were also planted on the Ruiri plains in Meru. It was on thisunknown root stock variety that Monsignor Perlo’s brother grafted Barbera vines brought from the Piedmont region in the north west of Italy. Barbera next to Sangiovese is Italy’s most planted red grape known for its high level of natural acidity a desirable attribute in hot climates; perhaps this is why the brother chose the Barbera grape for Meru? How does it taste? Well the label describes it as, “A mature, full-bodied and honest wine”, and for me that is pretty good description of what it tastes like.
As with the last wine column in the last edition of the Kenya Kitchen, I and a select group of wine tasters (the Winettes) recently enjoyed a sample of Tuscan wines which are all available in Kenya. Here are the results of our dedication to seeking out Tuscan excellence.
Castello Di Ama 2007 Chianti Classico
A great example of the improvement in quality of Chianti wines this wine is made from 100% Sangiovese. The wine is bright medium red in colour with plenty of tomato and red fruits on the nose. On the palate it has a rich and ripe style that has a strong black cherry and tobacco flavours.
Brunello Di Montalcino 2002 DOCG
Brunello is the name of the local Sangiovese variety that is grown around the village of Montalcino. Located south of the Chianti Classico zone, the Montalcino range is drier and warmer than Chianti. The Brunello variety of Sangiovese seems to flourish in this terroir, ripening easily and producing consistently wines of deep color, extract, richness with full bodies and good balance of tannins.
Sangiovento De Toscana 2007 IGT
Another Tuscan wine based predominantly on the Sangiovese grape with 15% Cabernet Sauvignon another grape originally from the Bordeaux region of France. The wine is deep red in colour with an expressive bouquet of dark red fruits such as blackcurrants and blackberries. On the palate the tannins are well integrated even though the wine is relatively young. The fruit is well represented on the taste with a satisfying long finish. This was the favourite wine of our tastings.
Sassicaia 2007 Bolgheri Sassicaia
The original “Super Tuscan” a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc this wines reputation goes before it and indeed lives up to the high praise. Sassicaia is known for aging well, meaning it can develop and improve in the bottle for up to 20 years. On the nose the typical Sangiovese dark fruit and tomato is apparent. The palate is smooth although the tannins indicate the wine still needs some bottle age to integrate fully. A fabulous and world class wine capable of rubbing shoulders with the finest wines of France or anywhere for that matter.
Italy vies with France as the world’s largest producer of wine and the Italians still consume most of that wine themselves: about 50 to 60 litres per capita per year. While this still puts Italy near the top of the world’s league table of consumers the figure has halved over the last fifty years. The key to understanding Italian wine is first and foremost to understand the critical link with the country’s food. In the past Italians like much of the rest of Europe drank wine primarily as a safe alternative to water. Fermented grape juice has the advantage of killing many of the harmful bacteria associated with poor quality water and is certainly more interesting, not to mention the pleasant effectsdue to alcohol. Among foodies and wine lovers there isa somewhat esoteric debate that goes along the following lines. Did the different styles of wines to be found throughout Italy’s regions develop to match the food, or, did the regional foods of Italy develop to match the wines?
The answer is of course probably a bit of both, but what is striking, if you ever have the good fortune to travel in Italy, is the superb match between local foods and local wines. In Sicily in the hot south of Italy the white wines made from the grape variety Catarratto Blanco and the red wines made from the grape variety Nero d’Avola go fantastically with the seafood and predominantly vegetarian cuisine. From the Piedmont region in the north west of Italy can be found Barbaresco, Barbera, and Barolo wines. These red wines are a match made in heaven for dishes such as tairin, narrow tagliatelle enriched with aromatic truffles, or, Brasato al Barolo, braised beef with Barolo. Italian cuisine is all about the quality of the ingredients epitomized by the humble tomato, of which there are over three-hundred varieties grown in Italy. It is no accident that the wines of Italy and above all the famous Sangiovese grape variety indigenous to the Tuscany region in central Italy, match exquisitely the tomato based foods. Whether it is beautiful ripe red tomatoes on a plate of antipasti, or, a rich tomato pasta sauce, Italians reach for theirTuscan Sangiovese based wine such as Chianti and Brunello diMontalcino.
In terms of wine production Tuscany is not the largest producing region in Italy; in fact it is third behind Piedmont and Vento regions, but it is perhaps the most exciting. Tuscany has achieved a double trick whereby it has managed to maintain tradition while at the same time pioneered new methods of production that put it at the forefront of innovation in Italian wine making. The most concrete example of innovation was in the 1960’s and 1970’s with the introduction of the so called “Super Tuscans”. Super Tuscans are based on a "Bordeaux-blend", meaning a combination of grapes typical for the Bordeaux region in South West France (especially Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot). These grapes are not originally from the region, but imported and planted later. The climate in Tuscany has proven to be very good for these grapes. One of the first successful Super Tuscan based a "Bordeaux-blend" was Sassicaia, by Tenuta San Guido a wine tasted for this article and reported on below.
The success of Super Tuscan wine particularly outside of Italy has had the effect of encouraging innovation and improved quality of wine production in Chianti, other Tuscan areas of wine production and to a certain extent throughout the rest of Italy. Chianti produced in the central part of Tuscany used to be bottled in a distinctive dumpy-shaped bottle enclosed in a straw basket that spurned a world wide craze in home table lamp production. The wine itself was unexciting, but with the introduction of a new classification of Chianti Classico, Chianti production has improved in quality dramatically. These Chianti and Chianti Classico wines are still predominantly based on the Tuscans’ beloved Sangiovese grape, but the addition of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in varying amounts, combined with modern wine making, has made them some of Italy’s most sought after red wines.
Before we move to the Tuscan wine tasting, let me turn to a wonderful quirk, which is Kenya’s own Italian wine. Meru Wine based not far from the town of Meru close to Mount Kenya, produce Barbera a Red Table Wine as well as a White Table Wine and a Communion Wine. The text on the back label of the Barbera wine is wonderfully romantic describing how in 1904 Monsignor Perlo and Father Carliero planted the first vines around Muran’ga and Nyeri. Following the success achieved from wines made from the grapes of these first vines, vines were also planted on the Ruiri plains in Meru. It was on thisunknown root stock variety that Monsignor Perlo’s brother grafted Barbera vines brought from the Piedmont region in the north west of Italy. Barbera next to Sangiovese is Italy’s most planted red grape known for its high level of natural acidity a desirable attribute in hot climates; perhaps this is why the brother chose the Barbera grape for Meru? How does it taste? Well the label describes it as, “A mature, full-bodied and honest wine”, and for me that is pretty good description of what it tastes like.
As with the last wine column in the last edition of the Kenya Kitchen, I and a select group of wine tasters (the Winettes) recently enjoyed a sample of Tuscan wines which are all available in Kenya. Here are the results of our dedication to seeking out Tuscan excellence.
Castello Di Ama 2007 Chianti Classico
A great example of the improvement in quality of Chianti wines this wine is made from 100% Sangiovese. The wine is bright medium red in colour with plenty of tomato and red fruits on the nose. On the palate it has a rich and ripe style that has a strong black cherry and tobacco flavours.
Brunello Di Montalcino 2002 DOCG
Brunello is the name of the local Sangiovese variety that is grown around the village of Montalcino. Located south of the Chianti Classico zone, the Montalcino range is drier and warmer than Chianti. The Brunello variety of Sangiovese seems to flourish in this terroir, ripening easily and producing consistently wines of deep color, extract, richness with full bodies and good balance of tannins.
Sangiovento De Toscana 2007 IGT
Another Tuscan wine based predominantly on the Sangiovese grape with 15% Cabernet Sauvignon another grape originally from the Bordeaux region of France. The wine is deep red in colour with an expressive bouquet of dark red fruits such as blackcurrants and blackberries. On the palate the tannins are well integrated even though the wine is relatively young. The fruit is well represented on the taste with a satisfying long finish. This was the favourite wine of our tastings.
Sassicaia 2007 Bolgheri Sassicaia
The original “Super Tuscan” a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc this wines reputation goes before it and indeed lives up to the high praise. Sassicaia is known for aging well, meaning it can develop and improve in the bottle for up to 20 years. On the nose the typical Sangiovese dark fruit and tomato is apparent. The palate is smooth although the tannins indicate the wine still needs some bottle age to integrate fully. A fabulous and world class wine capable of rubbing shoulders with the finest wines of France or anywhere for that matter.
Tuesday, May 1, 2012
There is nothing wrong with a little maturity
The general consensus among wine aficionados is that except for the most prestigious of the world’s cuvées the need to lay-down bottles of wine is no longer required. The vast majority of wine is produced ready to drink at the time of purchase. Wine consumers want to pull the cork, or, crack the screw cap immediately, drink their wine, and enjoy. After all in a world of instant gratification, who has the time and finance let alone the interest to lay-down wines for drinking some time in the distant future? Sure bottles of wine benefit from a little time and care before opening, but the need for damp and dark cellars has disappeared. Are then those fashionable and expensive wine cabinets that adorn hi-tech kitchens really just for show?
The reason I am thinking about wine ageing is that recently I enjoyed pulling the corks on some old and venerated northern Rhône Valley wines. Of course there is absolutely no fun in drinking old wines and for that matter any wine by oneself and as usual I was grateful to family and friends for indulging my interest. The wines, (as I will describe in a little more detail later and some are in the picture below), I thought were fabulous, although I do recognise some personal bias here.
The empty bottles are the ones already tasted at the time of taking the photograph
What I have noticed over the years when drinking older wines is that they are not to everyone’s taste even if they are in perfect condition let alone if they are oxidised, tired, and dried out. I accept that tasting old vintages is somewhat of an acquired taste and probably only for wine enthusiasts like me. Most wine drinkers it is true are more than happy with the good value for money and fruity modern wines that adorn any supermarket shelf. Why go to the expense of drinking an older vintage when you can get a perfectly good modern wine in tip-top condition and not for very much money? There is however, much pleasure and interest to be had in the whole process of ageing wines. There is first the search for wines that benefit from ageing that are not necessarily the tried and trusted cuvées, i.e. are affordable. It is interesting to follow the progress and development of a treasured bottle of wine. There is also the fun of matching a well aged bottle of wine with food; and when the combination is right it adds even more pleasure.
When I started to buy wine to lay-down I could not afford the grand cuvées of Europe. Premier Cru Bordeaux and Grand Cru Burgundy’s were even 30 years ago well out of my price bracket. The fact that they have become even more out of my price bracket as the years have passed by is disappointing and a whole subject in itself. Blockbuster California reds and the iconic Penfolds Grange from Australia, which by the 1980’s were well established as “world class” were also too expensive. I perhaps could have gone for an Italian wine based on the Nebbiolo or Sangiovese red grapes, although the so called ‘Super Tuscan’s” were also commanding stratospheric prices by the 1980’s, but at the time I was not familiar with what I later appreciated to be fantastic wines. Instead I turned to wines that both benefited from bottle maturation, I could afford (just about), and last but not least I actually liked. What I liked at the time and still do were wines based on the Syrah grape variety.
The home of Syrah grape variety is the Rhône Valley in south eastern France. Syrah is usually said to have originated from Shiraz, the capital of Fars in Iran and brought to the Rhône Valley possibly by the Greeks of Phocaea some 2,500 years ago. Another opposing theory as to the origins of Syrah comes from Carole Meredith professor of viticulture at University of California, Davis. From an analysis of Syrah DNA, Dr. Meredith’s research points to Syrah being derived from two varieties: Dureza, which originates from Ardèche and Moneuse from Savoie both in France and relatively close to the northern Rhône Valley. Whatever the origins of Syrah there is no doubting that the best Syrah based wines are still to be found in the northern Rhône Valley although fantastic Syrah, (Shiraz as the grape is called in many parts of the world), wines come from Australia and increasingly Chile.
The great northern Rhône tastings took place at the Isle of Eriska on Scotland’s west coast. The wines were stored in Scotland since they were purchased by me more than 20 years ago. My modest collection of northern Rhône wines provides added enjoyment to visiting the old country from time to time.
Côte Rôtie Côtes Brune et Blond, E. Guigal 1988
I bought this wine from Cockburns Wine Merchants (no longer operating) in Edinburgh and it cost in 1990 £11.50 a bottle. Guigal is the most famous of the Rhône Valley’s merchants established in 1946 and often credited with catalysing the so called ‘Rhône Renaissance’. Although the label has the name Ėtienne Guigal, the son Marcel was very much in charge of the business by 1988. Côte Rôtie, (“roasted slope”), is the most northerly of the northern Rhône appellations. The Brune et Blonde refers to hillside vineyards within the appellation and the names derive from an ancient legend relating the two daughters of the Seigneur de Maugiron, one brunette and the other blonde. The Brune et Blonde is the ‘every-day’ Côte Rôtie, in comparison to the famous three cru wines produced by Guigal: La Mouline, La Landonne, and La Turque. Guigal is associated with modernising the style of Côte Rôtie towards a riper, mouth-filling, rich and oaky style much admired by the USA wine critic Robert Parker. By 1990 when I bought this wine the wines of Guigal had become popular not least because of Parker’s praise although it was still possible to buy the Brune et Blonde at a relatively modest price. The difference between Côte Rôtie and other northern Rhône appellations such as Cornas and Hermitage is that many producers include a small amount of the white grape Viognier with the Syrah. The Viognier provides a perfume to the wine often described as the scent of violets.
If you look at the photograph above you will see that this wine, third from the left, has a slightly lower collar level than the other wines in the photograph indicating a little seepage. Seepage can indicate that the wine is getting too much exposure to oxygen, which can both increase the speed of the ageing process and ultimately lead to what is called an oxidized wine. When this happens, the wine loses its fresh, fruity aroma and becomes vapid and flat smelling. When I opened the wine however the cork and wine were in good condition. The Côte Rôtie Côtes Brune et Blond, 1988 is a blend of 96% Syrah and 4% Viognier. The bouquet is sweet with smoky raspberry fruit, with still (amazingly?) some oak on the nose. Although the Viognier is really just a splash it makes a difference with the smell of violets. Soft and luscious on the plate there is fruit of plums and raspberries. The wine was definitely a little tired and past its best and should have been drunk a while ago, but I still enjoyed the wine and indeed it was probably the favourite amongst the group that tasted the flight of northern Rhône’s at the Isle of Eriska.
Côte Rôtie Côtes Brune et Blond, E. Guigal 1989
This wine was also from Cockburns and in 1991 was £12.50 a bottle. A dark ruby colour with a thick brick coloured rim. Still lots of fruit on the nose and I thought the perfume of the Viognier was also apparent as with the 1988 on this wine. Raspberries on the palate and very smooth and the tannins well integrated. As with the 1988 past its best, but again I am surprised just how good the wine still is, at least to me.
Cornas, Noël Verset 1989
I bought this wine from my favourite wine merchant, Raeburn Fine Wines based opposite the cricket pitch in Stockbridge Edinburgh and in 1991 it cost £9.50 a bottle. Cornas is the next appellation north from St. Pére in the southern part of the northern Rhône. In 1989 Noël Verset was already 70 years old and had been making wine since he was 12 when he joined his father in the family owned domaine. His last official vintage was in 2003 although apparently he still tinkered in his cellar until 2006. Noël Verset owned in total fewer than 2 hectres in Cornas and production was always miniscule. I cannot stress how rare this wine is and I admit it was the fact that I liked the artisanal nature of the production as much as the wine when I started collecting (the first vintage I bought was 1983) Noël Verset’s remarkable Cornas.
A thick brick coloured rim, browning, but with still an intense centre red colour. The bouquet was deep with lots of forest floor aromas overlain by dark plumb fruit. Remarkably I could still taste/feel a wee bit of tannin and dare I suggest for a 23 years old wine this still had the structure to possibly improve with further ageing. Maybe that it is pushing it a bit, but a well integrated wine and as smooth as silk. Possibly the best Noël Verset I have tasted (I have tasted 1982 through to 1988 and 1990 to 1995).
Cornas, Noël Verset 1991
This wine was also purchased at Raeburn Fine Wines in 1993 at £10.50 a bottle. 1991 was an under rated vintage in the northern Rhône Valley partly because of the late rains, which effected ripening of the grapes. This wine though had a deep purple colour with a graduating brown rim. The distinctive earthiness of Cornas with the addition of sweet cassis (blackcurrant) was apparent on the bouquet of the wine. In the mouth the wine had low acidity with still plenty of fruit of raspberries and plums. Definitely not past it and although unlikely to improve in the bottle will likely hold together for a few years ahead.
Côte Rôtie Cuvée Réservée, Gentaz-Dervieux, 1991
I bought this wine in 1993 from Raeburn Fine Wines and it cost £15.40. Marius Gentaz-Dervieux held approximately 1.2 hectres of vineyards on very steep slopes as with most of Côte Rôtie. The vineyards are only 50 metres from the famous Guigal’s La Turque vineyard. Carrying the sobriquet Côte Brune, these wines with great expression of terroir are earthy and are a true expression of their origins.
The wine had a deep ruby purple colour with a graduated brick rim. On the nose there was roasted raspberry fruit, horse saddles, and damp earth. Full bodied on the mouth feel with a smooth texture. Probably past it’s best although not necessarily tired. I will just have to keep drinking the remaining bottles!
Côte Rôtie Cuvée Réservée, Gentaz-Dervieux, 1993
I bought this wine in 1995 from Raeburn Fine Wines and it cost £16.50. This was Marius Gentaz-Dervieux final vintage. 1993 is often described as one of the most difficult vintages in the northern Rhône Valley. Although this has the name Gentaz-Dervieux on the label from the 1993 vintage the vineyards were leased to René Rostaing another famous family based Rhône Valley wine producer.
A strong purple colour with a thick brick coloured rim to the wine in the glass. As with the 1991, this vintage has the tell-tale Gentaz-Dervieux earthiness on the nose. Medium bodied on the palate with tannins completely integrated and smooth. Smooth is indeed the description for this wine and is just great with foods of surprisingly a wide variety. Probably past its best and needs drinking, hey-ho and here we go!
Hermitage, Domaine Jean-Louis Chave, 1995
I bought this wine in 1997 from Yapp Brothers based in Mere Wiltshire and it cost me £32.50 a bottle, at the time the most I had spent on a bottle of wine. Hermitage is to the south of the famous white grape appellation of Condrieu in the northern part of the northern Rhône. Much of the 131 hectres of the Hermitage appellation are owned by the négociants Chapoutier and Paul Jaboulet Aîné. Domaine Jean-Louis Chave dates back to 1481 and retains an important and many would argue vital part in the image and quality of Rhône Valley perhaps even French wines. Jean-Louis, born in 1935, has been the driving force followed by his son and other family members who have succeeded in elevating the quality and reputation of Hermitage wines. At Hermitage, the Chaves work 9.3 hectres of Syrah vineyards and 4.6 hectres of Marsanne (80 per cent) and Roussanne (20 per cent), both white grapes that produce the Hermitage blanc as famous as the rouge wines.
Dark red, thin brick line at top. Dark red plums and mushrooms on the nose. The palate had remarkable complexity with fruit flavours of plums and blackberries still strong. To me this is a good example of how easy it is with older wines to mix up the grape varieties. I know this wine is 100% Syrah, but I am sure if I was doing the tasting blind I could possibly mistake this wine for a top quality Burgundy not least because of the finesse. There are also Pinot connotations of raspberry fruit, but the spicy flavours of the Syrah probably takes one back to the northern Rhône Valley. The wine has great smoothness with a long finish. I have a case of the Hermitage, Domaine Jean-Louis Chave, 1990, which I am still resisting opening, but it is going to be tough for it to match up this 1991. This is Syrah heaven?
The reason I am thinking about wine ageing is that recently I enjoyed pulling the corks on some old and venerated northern Rhône Valley wines. Of course there is absolutely no fun in drinking old wines and for that matter any wine by oneself and as usual I was grateful to family and friends for indulging my interest. The wines, (as I will describe in a little more detail later and some are in the picture below), I thought were fabulous, although I do recognise some personal bias here.
The empty bottles are the ones already tasted at the time of taking the photograph
What I have noticed over the years when drinking older wines is that they are not to everyone’s taste even if they are in perfect condition let alone if they are oxidised, tired, and dried out. I accept that tasting old vintages is somewhat of an acquired taste and probably only for wine enthusiasts like me. Most wine drinkers it is true are more than happy with the good value for money and fruity modern wines that adorn any supermarket shelf. Why go to the expense of drinking an older vintage when you can get a perfectly good modern wine in tip-top condition and not for very much money? There is however, much pleasure and interest to be had in the whole process of ageing wines. There is first the search for wines that benefit from ageing that are not necessarily the tried and trusted cuvées, i.e. are affordable. It is interesting to follow the progress and development of a treasured bottle of wine. There is also the fun of matching a well aged bottle of wine with food; and when the combination is right it adds even more pleasure.
When I started to buy wine to lay-down I could not afford the grand cuvées of Europe. Premier Cru Bordeaux and Grand Cru Burgundy’s were even 30 years ago well out of my price bracket. The fact that they have become even more out of my price bracket as the years have passed by is disappointing and a whole subject in itself. Blockbuster California reds and the iconic Penfolds Grange from Australia, which by the 1980’s were well established as “world class” were also too expensive. I perhaps could have gone for an Italian wine based on the Nebbiolo or Sangiovese red grapes, although the so called ‘Super Tuscan’s” were also commanding stratospheric prices by the 1980’s, but at the time I was not familiar with what I later appreciated to be fantastic wines. Instead I turned to wines that both benefited from bottle maturation, I could afford (just about), and last but not least I actually liked. What I liked at the time and still do were wines based on the Syrah grape variety.
The home of Syrah grape variety is the Rhône Valley in south eastern France. Syrah is usually said to have originated from Shiraz, the capital of Fars in Iran and brought to the Rhône Valley possibly by the Greeks of Phocaea some 2,500 years ago. Another opposing theory as to the origins of Syrah comes from Carole Meredith professor of viticulture at University of California, Davis. From an analysis of Syrah DNA, Dr. Meredith’s research points to Syrah being derived from two varieties: Dureza, which originates from Ardèche and Moneuse from Savoie both in France and relatively close to the northern Rhône Valley. Whatever the origins of Syrah there is no doubting that the best Syrah based wines are still to be found in the northern Rhône Valley although fantastic Syrah, (Shiraz as the grape is called in many parts of the world), wines come from Australia and increasingly Chile.
The great northern Rhône tastings took place at the Isle of Eriska on Scotland’s west coast. The wines were stored in Scotland since they were purchased by me more than 20 years ago. My modest collection of northern Rhône wines provides added enjoyment to visiting the old country from time to time.
Côte Rôtie Côtes Brune et Blond, E. Guigal 1988
I bought this wine from Cockburns Wine Merchants (no longer operating) in Edinburgh and it cost in 1990 £11.50 a bottle. Guigal is the most famous of the Rhône Valley’s merchants established in 1946 and often credited with catalysing the so called ‘Rhône Renaissance’. Although the label has the name Ėtienne Guigal, the son Marcel was very much in charge of the business by 1988. Côte Rôtie, (“roasted slope”), is the most northerly of the northern Rhône appellations. The Brune et Blonde refers to hillside vineyards within the appellation and the names derive from an ancient legend relating the two daughters of the Seigneur de Maugiron, one brunette and the other blonde. The Brune et Blonde is the ‘every-day’ Côte Rôtie, in comparison to the famous three cru wines produced by Guigal: La Mouline, La Landonne, and La Turque. Guigal is associated with modernising the style of Côte Rôtie towards a riper, mouth-filling, rich and oaky style much admired by the USA wine critic Robert Parker. By 1990 when I bought this wine the wines of Guigal had become popular not least because of Parker’s praise although it was still possible to buy the Brune et Blonde at a relatively modest price. The difference between Côte Rôtie and other northern Rhône appellations such as Cornas and Hermitage is that many producers include a small amount of the white grape Viognier with the Syrah. The Viognier provides a perfume to the wine often described as the scent of violets.
If you look at the photograph above you will see that this wine, third from the left, has a slightly lower collar level than the other wines in the photograph indicating a little seepage. Seepage can indicate that the wine is getting too much exposure to oxygen, which can both increase the speed of the ageing process and ultimately lead to what is called an oxidized wine. When this happens, the wine loses its fresh, fruity aroma and becomes vapid and flat smelling. When I opened the wine however the cork and wine were in good condition. The Côte Rôtie Côtes Brune et Blond, 1988 is a blend of 96% Syrah and 4% Viognier. The bouquet is sweet with smoky raspberry fruit, with still (amazingly?) some oak on the nose. Although the Viognier is really just a splash it makes a difference with the smell of violets. Soft and luscious on the plate there is fruit of plums and raspberries. The wine was definitely a little tired and past its best and should have been drunk a while ago, but I still enjoyed the wine and indeed it was probably the favourite amongst the group that tasted the flight of northern Rhône’s at the Isle of Eriska.
Côte Rôtie Côtes Brune et Blond, E. Guigal 1989
This wine was also from Cockburns and in 1991 was £12.50 a bottle. A dark ruby colour with a thick brick coloured rim. Still lots of fruit on the nose and I thought the perfume of the Viognier was also apparent as with the 1988 on this wine. Raspberries on the palate and very smooth and the tannins well integrated. As with the 1988 past its best, but again I am surprised just how good the wine still is, at least to me.
Cornas, Noël Verset 1989
I bought this wine from my favourite wine merchant, Raeburn Fine Wines based opposite the cricket pitch in Stockbridge Edinburgh and in 1991 it cost £9.50 a bottle. Cornas is the next appellation north from St. Pére in the southern part of the northern Rhône. In 1989 Noël Verset was already 70 years old and had been making wine since he was 12 when he joined his father in the family owned domaine. His last official vintage was in 2003 although apparently he still tinkered in his cellar until 2006. Noël Verset owned in total fewer than 2 hectres in Cornas and production was always miniscule. I cannot stress how rare this wine is and I admit it was the fact that I liked the artisanal nature of the production as much as the wine when I started collecting (the first vintage I bought was 1983) Noël Verset’s remarkable Cornas.
A thick brick coloured rim, browning, but with still an intense centre red colour. The bouquet was deep with lots of forest floor aromas overlain by dark plumb fruit. Remarkably I could still taste/feel a wee bit of tannin and dare I suggest for a 23 years old wine this still had the structure to possibly improve with further ageing. Maybe that it is pushing it a bit, but a well integrated wine and as smooth as silk. Possibly the best Noël Verset I have tasted (I have tasted 1982 through to 1988 and 1990 to 1995).
Cornas, Noël Verset 1991
This wine was also purchased at Raeburn Fine Wines in 1993 at £10.50 a bottle. 1991 was an under rated vintage in the northern Rhône Valley partly because of the late rains, which effected ripening of the grapes. This wine though had a deep purple colour with a graduating brown rim. The distinctive earthiness of Cornas with the addition of sweet cassis (blackcurrant) was apparent on the bouquet of the wine. In the mouth the wine had low acidity with still plenty of fruit of raspberries and plums. Definitely not past it and although unlikely to improve in the bottle will likely hold together for a few years ahead.
Côte Rôtie Cuvée Réservée, Gentaz-Dervieux, 1991
I bought this wine in 1993 from Raeburn Fine Wines and it cost £15.40. Marius Gentaz-Dervieux held approximately 1.2 hectres of vineyards on very steep slopes as with most of Côte Rôtie. The vineyards are only 50 metres from the famous Guigal’s La Turque vineyard. Carrying the sobriquet Côte Brune, these wines with great expression of terroir are earthy and are a true expression of their origins.
The wine had a deep ruby purple colour with a graduated brick rim. On the nose there was roasted raspberry fruit, horse saddles, and damp earth. Full bodied on the mouth feel with a smooth texture. Probably past it’s best although not necessarily tired. I will just have to keep drinking the remaining bottles!
Côte Rôtie Cuvée Réservée, Gentaz-Dervieux, 1993
I bought this wine in 1995 from Raeburn Fine Wines and it cost £16.50. This was Marius Gentaz-Dervieux final vintage. 1993 is often described as one of the most difficult vintages in the northern Rhône Valley. Although this has the name Gentaz-Dervieux on the label from the 1993 vintage the vineyards were leased to René Rostaing another famous family based Rhône Valley wine producer.
A strong purple colour with a thick brick coloured rim to the wine in the glass. As with the 1991, this vintage has the tell-tale Gentaz-Dervieux earthiness on the nose. Medium bodied on the palate with tannins completely integrated and smooth. Smooth is indeed the description for this wine and is just great with foods of surprisingly a wide variety. Probably past its best and needs drinking, hey-ho and here we go!
Hermitage, Domaine Jean-Louis Chave, 1995
I bought this wine in 1997 from Yapp Brothers based in Mere Wiltshire and it cost me £32.50 a bottle, at the time the most I had spent on a bottle of wine. Hermitage is to the south of the famous white grape appellation of Condrieu in the northern part of the northern Rhône. Much of the 131 hectres of the Hermitage appellation are owned by the négociants Chapoutier and Paul Jaboulet Aîné. Domaine Jean-Louis Chave dates back to 1481 and retains an important and many would argue vital part in the image and quality of Rhône Valley perhaps even French wines. Jean-Louis, born in 1935, has been the driving force followed by his son and other family members who have succeeded in elevating the quality and reputation of Hermitage wines. At Hermitage, the Chaves work 9.3 hectres of Syrah vineyards and 4.6 hectres of Marsanne (80 per cent) and Roussanne (20 per cent), both white grapes that produce the Hermitage blanc as famous as the rouge wines.
Dark red, thin brick line at top. Dark red plums and mushrooms on the nose. The palate had remarkable complexity with fruit flavours of plums and blackberries still strong. To me this is a good example of how easy it is with older wines to mix up the grape varieties. I know this wine is 100% Syrah, but I am sure if I was doing the tasting blind I could possibly mistake this wine for a top quality Burgundy not least because of the finesse. There are also Pinot connotations of raspberry fruit, but the spicy flavours of the Syrah probably takes one back to the northern Rhône Valley. The wine has great smoothness with a long finish. I have a case of the Hermitage, Domaine Jean-Louis Chave, 1990, which I am still resisting opening, but it is going to be tough for it to match up this 1991. This is Syrah heaven?
Thursday, February 9, 2012
A Rosé by any other name
On a hot summer’s days something soft and refreshing is required to quench the thirst. Red wines can be too heavy and some white wines too tart and acidic for hot weather. This is where Rosé wines can come to the rescue and above all offer fun. A well chilled bottle of Rosé wine, shared with friends and family is the perfect way to relax and enjoy a special weekend afternoon. Rosé wines can either be drunk alone as an aperitif or with food. Rosé wines can compliment almost any dish for example: crisp salads, spicy foods, seafood, or, grilled meats straight from the barbeque. Rosé wines come in a variety of styles from dry, semi-sweet to very sweet. There are also sparkling Rosés such as a luxurious pink Champagne, or, a recent addition to the market, a pink Port (which is a fortified wine) from Portugal.
Rosé wines are said to originate from the south of France where the hot Mediterranean summers are conducive to alfresco living. By volume, the region of Provence with its long coastline produces half of all the wine made in France, and more than eighty percent of this is Rosé. The main grape variety for making Rosé in Provence is Mourvèdre, which is actually a red grape. There are three methods for producing Rosé wines. The first is by blending red and white wine, a method usually used for cheaper wines. Then there is the method favoured in France and Provence called saignée, whereby some juice is immediately “bled” off the crushed red grapes. The remaining grape juice then has a higher grape skin to juice ratio. However, because the fruit has been harvested at optimal ripeness for red wine, there is a tendency for this style of Rosé to be high in alcohol. Most serious Rosé producers prefer the third method, whereby grapes are purpose grown to produce Rosé wines in specially selected vineyards. The grapes are harvested early to ensure higher acid and lower alcohol levels. The clear juice is left in contact with the skins after crushing to acquire the desired degree of pinkness. The longer the juices contact with the skins, the deeper the colour of the Rosé.
In Kenya a range of Rosé wines are available in good supermarkets and from wine suppliers. As with red and white wines, when choosing a Rosé wine decide whether you prefer a dry or sweet style. Rosé wines available in Kenya are mainly from the New World: South Africa, Australia, Chile and the USA. They are made with grape varieties such as Shiraz, Mourvèdre, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. They are increasingly available in what is called an off-dry style, which is described as semi-sweet on the label. “Semi-sweet” is a technical term and means that the wine has a residual sugar content above five to twenty milligrams per litre. Rosé wines are best drunk young, so look out for 2011 or 2010 vintages and be wary of any Rosé still on the shelves older than 2008. The exception to the rule is the wines from Tavel in the Southern Rhône in France, where some Rosé wines can mature nicely in the bottle for a decade or more. For a special occasion try a bottle fermented sparkling Rosé from the Champagne region in France, or from South Africa, Chile and Australia.
Here are some examples of Rosé wines available in Kenya, which were tasted with friends recently.
Rosé wines are said to originate from the south of France where the hot Mediterranean summers are conducive to alfresco living. By volume, the region of Provence with its long coastline produces half of all the wine made in France, and more than eighty percent of this is Rosé. The main grape variety for making Rosé in Provence is Mourvèdre, which is actually a red grape. There are three methods for producing Rosé wines. The first is by blending red and white wine, a method usually used for cheaper wines. Then there is the method favoured in France and Provence called saignée, whereby some juice is immediately “bled” off the crushed red grapes. The remaining grape juice then has a higher grape skin to juice ratio. However, because the fruit has been harvested at optimal ripeness for red wine, there is a tendency for this style of Rosé to be high in alcohol. Most serious Rosé producers prefer the third method, whereby grapes are purpose grown to produce Rosé wines in specially selected vineyards. The grapes are harvested early to ensure higher acid and lower alcohol levels. The clear juice is left in contact with the skins after crushing to acquire the desired degree of pinkness. The longer the juices contact with the skins, the deeper the colour of the Rosé.
In Kenya a range of Rosé wines are available in good supermarkets and from wine suppliers. As with red and white wines, when choosing a Rosé wine decide whether you prefer a dry or sweet style. Rosé wines available in Kenya are mainly from the New World: South Africa, Australia, Chile and the USA. They are made with grape varieties such as Shiraz, Mourvèdre, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. They are increasingly available in what is called an off-dry style, which is described as semi-sweet on the label. “Semi-sweet” is a technical term and means that the wine has a residual sugar content above five to twenty milligrams per litre. Rosé wines are best drunk young, so look out for 2011 or 2010 vintages and be wary of any Rosé still on the shelves older than 2008. The exception to the rule is the wines from Tavel in the Southern Rhône in France, where some Rosé wines can mature nicely in the bottle for a decade or more. For a special occasion try a bottle fermented sparkling Rosé from the Champagne region in France, or from South Africa, Chile and Australia.
Here are some examples of Rosé wines available in Kenya, which were tasted with friends recently.
- Villiera Brut Rosé, Method Cap Classique, South Africa, non-vintage, KSH2,600 available from MIA Wines and Spirits International (email: Kafrawines@nbi.ispkenya.com). A classy bottle fermented sparkling wine known as Méthode Cap Classique in South Africa. Interesting in that this Brut Rosé is unusual in that it is made with a majority of the red grape Pinotage, South Africa’s only indigenous grape.
- Cinzano Rosé Vino Spumante Gran Cuvée, Italy, non-vintage, about KSH1,000 to 1,500, available in many supermarkets in Kenya. A sparkling sweet wine not to be taken too seriously.
- Juno Cape Maidens Rosé, South Africa, 2010, KSH850, available from MIA Wines and Spirits International (email: Kafrawines@nbi.ispkenya.com). Cranberry cherry colour, dry, light and lively.
- Goats do Roam Rosé, South Africa, 2010, KSH930, available from Mia Wines and Spirits International (email: Kafrawines@nbi.ispkenya.com). This is a Shiraz led Rosé, fresh, and zesty berry flavours.
- Kleinfontein Rosé, South Africa, 2010, KSH850, available from Jos. Hasen (email: info@hansenkenya.com). Salmon pink, dry and bright fruit.
- Frontera Cabernet Blush, Chile, 2010, KSH900 to KSH950, available from most good supermarkets. Dark Rosé, relatively high alcohol at 13.5%, ripe fruit and smooth tannins.
- Nabygelegen House Wine Rosé, South Africa, non-vintage, KSH850, available from Jos. Hasen (email: info@hansenkenya.com). Merlot base Rosé, medium body, fresh acidity and good finish. This was one of the favourites amongst my friends.
- Carlo Rossi California Rosé, USA, non-vintage, KSH1,200, available in supermarkets. I think this has some Zinfandel a grape very much associated with California.
- Angove Nine Vines Rosé, Australia, 2010, KSH1,200, available from in supermarkets. A blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Shiraz. A bright pink wine bursting with Australian sunshine.
- Bellingham Rosé, South Africa, 2011, KSH766, available from Wines of the World (Telephone 020 264 6020). Light pink, tangy and semi-sweet.
- Caliterra Reserva Rosé, Chile, 2010, KSH1,200, available in supermarkets. Another Shiraz based Rosé from the Colchagua Valley in the Central region of Chile.
Wednesday, February 8, 2012
Wine and Restaurants in Kenya
More and more Kenyans are enjoying wine, either at home, nights out and in restaurants. Average wine consumption in Kenya is still very low and much less than 1 litre per person per year – this is higher than most African countries but less than South Africa which has an average consumption of around 7 litres per person per year. The growth in wine sales in Kenya has risen dramatically over the last decade in line with a prospering economy. Restaurants have responded to customer demands for wine and most now maintain a selection of wines. However, selecting a wine in a restaurant may be intimidating with many of us for what ever reason feeling self conscious and worried that we will make a mistake. This is not helped by the fact that the cost of wine in Kenyan restaurants although not expensive in comparison to most Africa countries with the notable exception of South Africa, can nevertheless set you back more than the cost of the food. It is also fair to say that when ordering wine in a Kenyan restaurant, staff may not be able to provide advice, as, through no fault of their own they have received limited training and experience in guiding the guest in their choice of wine. To help in navigating your way around a restaurant’s wine list here are a few tips.
1) Be confident in what you like. While it may be true that so called wine connoisseurs may know a lot about wine, they do not know your preferences and they certainly do not necessarily have a better taste than you do. In other words, if you like sweet and fruity, or, dry and crisp wines then tell the waiter this is what you would like.
2) Read the winelist and note the prices. Do not be worried to tell your waiter that you are looking for value for money, or, that you do not want to spend more than a specified amount. Remember you are paying the bill, not the restaurant.
3) Ordering wine by the glass is relatively expensive. By all means if only one person on your table wants to drink wine then ordering by the glass is the way to go. However, remember once there are two and certainly three people drinking wine it is more economical to order a bottle.
4) Do not necessarily order the house wine. While it is usually true that the house wine will be the cheapest wine on the list it will not necessarily be the best value. Restaurants are more than happy to sell you the house wine as usually this is the wine where they can put the largest mark up on.
5) Remember the mark up. Most restaurants mark up the price of a bottle of wine from 100% to 300% on the wholesale price. Since you’re paying so much I recommend something you can’t get at the local supermarket or shops which sell wine. What is the point of spending twice or three times as much on a bottle of wine you can get at the supermarket next door?
6) Check the wine when it is brought to your table. You would be surprised how often a wine brought to your table is different to the one you ordered on the wine list. More often the vintage (year) is different and at least for European wines the variations in quality from one vintage to the next can be significant.
7) Do not smell the cork. By all means check that the cork is not crumbling and that the cork bottom is moist; but smelling the cork is no indication that the wine is good, bad, or, indifferent. Be wary if the waiter has brought the wine to the table with the cork already extracted or the screw-cap ‘cracked’ it may be that some one is filling the bottles with something different to what is on the label.
8) First step is to smell the wine. When the waiter pours a small amount in your glass the first thing to do and more often the only thing you need to do is to smell the wine. The smell or bouquet of a wine is more than enough to tell you if the wine is corked or off. If it smells musty or of bad-eggs then the wine is off and you are perfectly entitled to return the bottle and request a replacement. However, if you do not like the taste of the wine, this is not sufficient reason to send it back and try a different one. You have already made you choice of wine before the bottle is opened. However, I have noticed in Kenya that some restaurants will sometimes let you taste a small amount of the house wine and by all means avail yourself of this service if it is available.
9) My advice is to pour your own wine. Some waiters try and pour out the whole bottle before you have buttered your bread roll. Others believe they are doing the right thing by keeping your glass permanently full. However, wine is best enjoyed with the glass a little more than half full. This allows the “nose” or bouquet and flavours to be fully appreciated. But note –too much “swirling in the glass” - can lead to an embarrassing spillage. Whether or not the waiter has been told to keep-the-glasses-full or not, pouring your own means you are in control of the amount in your glass, and your total intake and not somebody else.
10) Cheap wine doesn’t mean it is bad and expensive wine doesn’t mean it’s good. But expensive wine is usually expensive because it’s good and in demand. Simple economics really.
From a restaurant’s perspective in the Kenyan context, it requires some effort to keep a good winelist as I found out when speaking with Kiran Jethwa the Manager and Executive Chef at the restaurant Seven Sea Food and Grill located in the ABC shopping centre in Nairobi. Kiran has gone to a lot of trouble in assembling and keeping a varied and extensive winelist. Kiran’s preference is for wines of the New World, (South Africa, USA, Australia, Chile and the Antipodeans), partly because he prefers the taste and partly because from his patron’s perspective they offer good value for money. New World, unlike Old World (mostly European) wines, are certainly easier to understand because the practice is to state the grape variety or varieties on the label. This makes it easier for the consumer to know what she or he is getting. As Kiran pointed out though, most restaurants in Kenya keep more or less the same selection of wines. The reason for this is the limited number of wine wholesalers and therefore that all restaurants are buying from only five or six companies. For a Kenyan restaurant to source its own supply of wines directly from the maker is at best extremely difficult and at worst impossible as there are strict rules and regulations with regard to obtaining a license to import wines and spirits to Kenya.
The other challenge which Kenyan restaurants face is consistency of supply. Keeping a winelist up to date is a difficult as wines quickly become unavailable particularly if they are good and represent value for money. To partly get around this problem Kiran keeps a ‘Wines of the Month” list at Seven, which if you are a regular patron is a good way of trying different styles of wine rather than sticking with the same wine every visit. While being cautious of recommending a particular wine with a particular dish, Kiran personally likes the Goose Chase wine with the Mambrui Clam Chowder; this is an Australian blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, and is currently available at Seven. Seven does indeed keep a good and extensive wine list and Kiran will only be delighted if you ask for some help on your first or next visit.
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